Anju: Building on Korean Traditions
By Nicole L. Gill, CouncilMag.com
When Anju opened its doors in Dupont Circle, Chef Danny Lee of the Fried Rice Collective was coming home. The restaurant is located in the former home of Lee’s Mandu. Lee, along with Chef Scott Drewno and Andrew Kim opened the collective’s second restaurant concept in August. The focus this time for the team behind CHIKO is Korean bar food.
“Anju traditionally means the food you have with alcoholic drinks,” said Executive Chef Angel Barreto in an email. “I would almost describe it as bar food that complements the drinks you’re having.” The food would be “typically something salty and savory so an ice-cold beverage quenches your thirst.”
One of the drinks Barreto recommends at Anju is Soju Bourbon. In this drink, soju – a Korean alcoholic beverage – is “infused with charred oak and vanilla mimicking the great taste of a full-bodied bourbon,” Barreto said.
The restaurant builds from past Korean traditions to create its present.
The 90-seat restaurant is designed by Lee’s wife, Natalie Park. “Anju is a venture into multi-facets of Korean cooking,” Barreto said. “We do not adhere to a region or time period, just food that speaks to us.”
High on the list of food that speaks to them is food from Lee’s mother, Yesoon Lee. The mother-son duo was behind Mandu, which closed in 2017 after a fire.
“Personally, I love working with Miss Lee. She is the walking history of her family,” Barreto said. “She is always willing to teach and explain her point of view and that is irreplaceable.”
Part of Anju’s menu is devoted to “Mama Lee.” Dishes include Dolsot Bibim Bap, a mixture of rice, assorted vegetables, and choice of bulgogi or tofu; Dak Jjim, Korean chili-braised chicken thighs, potatoes and onion; and Kimchi Jjigae, made of pork belly, tofu and aged kimchi.
Kimchi also holds a prominent spot on the menu. The menu features kimchi that has been aged 30 days and 100 days.
“It’s something I am quite proud of; something so simple, but made with much love and care,” Barreto said. He said he’s made more than 3,000 pounds of kimchi, “pasting each head leaf by leaf as it is traditionally done.”
In addition to kimchi, gamjatang is another popular dish at Anju. Barreto describes it as “braised pork shanks stew that falls off the bone.” It is paired with potatoes and cabbage, he said.
The Fried Rice Collective is focused on its current establishments, Barreto said.
“For now we pause. We will continue to build up the catering aspect of the company which offers guests the same great big flavors at CHIKO and Anju at home.”
Anju
1805 18th St. NW
Washington, D.C. 20009
Dining Room
Sunday - Thursday: 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.
Friday - Saturday: 5 p.m. – 11 p.m.
Bar
Sunday - Thursday: 5 p.m. – 1 a.m.
Friday - Saturday: 5 p.m. – 2 a.m.